Add 100ohm resistor across sync and ground for RGBs input | ! | ! | ! | Corrects sync level for 75 Ohm sources (such as game consoles) |
Replace R34 with 75 Ohm resistor | O | O | O | Permanent 75 Ohm termination, instead of the mod above |
Remove C11, optionally replace with 22uF (6.3V to 16V) electrolytic cap | O | O | O | Stabilizes 1.8V LDO, removes noise from image |
Remove the 3 RGB potentiometers, replace with direct link | O | O | O | Improves Colors |
Add 10uf / 22uf ceramic SMD capacitors in parallel to stock ones (x4) C23, C41(alternative: C43), C42, C48 | O | O | O | Provide local charge reservoir to help power supply bypassing. May reduce noise and waves in the image |
Add a Sync Stripper circuit to RGBs input | O | O | O | Try this if sync is never quite stable |
Replace R58 with 120 Ohm ferrite bead | O | X | X | For GBS8220 (2 output version); decouples charge pump |
Add 100n cap between R59 and R58 | O | X | X | For GBS8220 (2 output version); decouples charge pump |
Replace C33 and C35 with 1nf (1000pf) SMD capacitors (0605/0805 50V C0G) | X | X | X | Deprecated Sync fix |
Foil tape over digital signal lines | X | X | X | This was fixed in software (SDRAM delays) |
Replace L1 L2 L3 with 220R 100v ferrite beads | X | X | X | Not recommended until testing has concluded |